RAW vs KIBBLES

I used to eat grain free kibbles, first with Orijen Puppy then changed to Merrick. Mummy said I don’t need any grain and I do not have the digestive system to cope with grains and it might lead me to skin problem. Mummy don’t just pick any brands of kibbles from the shelf. She would definitely look at the ingredients in it and google whether there was any recalls understand the same organization. Since then, Mummy said I had a bad breath, smelly pee and poop, big poop and doggie smell.

Am I going to eat kibbles for the rest of my life? Will you eat biscuits only throughout your entire life? No WAY!

The next best thing is home made meal. But Mummy don’t really cook and don’t know which benefit me.

FINALLY she heard of RAW from one of her shelties’ owner, Aunty Lynn. So Mummy gonna check it out. Aunty Lynn referred her to Aunty Michelle who is an expert in this area. Among all diets, RAW IS THE BEST NUTRIENTS THEY HAVE EVER HAD. That’s how my RAW started.

Why RAW?

It is to feed the way mother nature intended.

It improves skin and coat, build stronger immune system, leaner body mass, improve stool volume, no more doggy odour, improve teeth, breath and oral health, better weight control, prevent health issues in future and many more.

Different animals different parts provide different nutrients so we don’t really need so many supplements.

How much?

It is based on 2% to 3% of the ideal adult weight because I’m still a puppy. If not, it should be based on current ideal weight. Every dog is different so this is just a starting point.

It consisted of 80% Meat, 10% Bone and 10% Organ (5% Liver and 5% other organ meat).

How do I start?

Just start eating RAW straight and do not need to do any transition of food. RAW and kibbles cannot mix together as it will harm to my digestive system.

It’s no secret – raw is best.

8 thoughts on “RAW vs KIBBLES

  1. Hello there,

    I’m guessing that my earlier comment didn’t get through, so I’m trying again. I’m wondering if you could help advise me regarding some issues I’ve been having with feeding my sheltie raw? Thanks, and I really do hope to hear from you!

      • Hello and thank you for your reply! I’ve been having the following problems which started only after I switched my sheltie to raw, and would be most glad if you might be able to advise regarding them.

        The main and first problem would be his sporadic but recurrent licking around the 7/8 o’clock region around his bum hole, and also the right side of his tail base. This would happen even if he’d just had a good bowel movement. He has also developed a patch on the bridge of his snout (between where his nose joins the rest of his snout) – while there isn’t hair loss it seems like there’s a blackish dirt-like substance that I can scrape off with my fingernail, and the skin is pinkish underneath.

        Another issue would be that he’d started poop-eating after a particularly bad month of on-off diarrhea in September 2015, which might have been caused by my changing of proteins in an attempt to find one on which he wouldn’t lick (around his bum). He hasn’t been putting on the weight he’d lost then, and when I try to increase the amount of food I feed he seems to poop more instead of putting on the weight.

        The last would be the general observation that he seems to be scratching more, and I unfortunately do not see any of the health benefits I’d expected/read about that convinced me to switch to raw. He was a generally healthy dog with an iron tummy (save bad dental hygiene) throughout the years he was on kibble, and it frustrates me to think I might be compromising on his health despite my best intents.

        Thank you for your time and reading through my long post, and I’d be really grateful for any advice you would share πŸ™‚

      • Hi, sad to hear that you have to been through this experience. I really hope I would be able to help you. Firstly, every dogs’ health are different, just like human. Doesn’t mean is good for one and good for all. I can’t see what kind of meat did you feed, where is the source of the meat, how you manage the meat before feeding and how much you feed?
        I only can share my experience to you. I got my first dog who was on kibbles for 3 months. He never gain weight even I fed alot and many meals a day. I gave good kibbles during that time. Then I totally switched to raw. Alot of my friends are feeding raw. He started to put on weight as meat tend to have more fats than kibbles and that depend which part and what kind of meat I feed. Before that, his poop was alot and hugh smelly poop, smelly breath, heavy doggy idour, dirty ear. Once i switched, it turned out good and it improved within a week.
        During that time, I never feed vege, fruits and supplements. I thought this is non essential. Then I know this friend who has done alot of research about dog nutrition due to her sick dog, I added vege, fruits and most important supplements. So far I didn’t experience skin irritation. I did blood test and body check every year and they are in the healthy stage. Recently, I did ultrasound for my 2nd dog and she is great.
        How old is your dog?

  2. Hello and thank you for your reply; sorry for the delay in my response.

    My sheltie’s turning 9 next week; I switched him back in end 2014. I started with the prey model raw diet, following pretty much the guideline you mentioned in your post: 80-85% meat, 10% bone, 5% liver. I started with bone-in chicken, and after his licking started about a week after that I tried various proteins including beef, pork, fish (lamb is a little too expensive here). I fed so until after his diarrhea episodes last September, when he lost quite a bit of weight and I was concerned that he wasn’t getting sufficient nutrition: I started him on commercial dehydrated raw (Addiction/Honest Kitchen), but the cost led me to return to feeding meat+liver+crushed eggshells (for calcium). This time I attempted to add pureed veggies and pumpkin at a 70:15:15 ratio (meat+liver+eggshells being 70%). I also supplemented with fish oil and yogurt; I occasionally add organic apple cider vinegar or coconut oil as well. In desperation, recently I’m trying BARF patties.

    My frustration, I guess, is that my dog was healthy with an ‘iron tummy’ prior to my feeding raw – he never required a vet other than a pressure sore he was licking, prior to my switching to raw. Since switching to raw I’ve been to the vet twice for his licking (which still wasn’t resolved because I didn’t want to keep him on allergy meds permanently), and twice for diarrhea (I do take the necessary sanitary precautions; the diarrhea episodes were more due to fat content or too rapid protein switching, I believe). My dog’s skin still builds up greasy flaky deposits within less than a week of showering, and in general, much as I believe this diet is better for him than kibble, it isn’t producing any of the visible benefits to encourage my family’s support. 😦

    Thanks for hearing me out, and I hope to hear of additional advice from you.

    • So your dog has totally switched back to kibbles or commercial raw? At the age of 9 need well balance nutrients. Prey model raw may lack of nutrients if you didn’t mix properly. If your dog is doing good in commercial raw, you can just stick with it.

      The food sound normal to me. Some dogs may not do well in some protein. Too much liver will cause diarrhea. Commercial dehydrated raw like honest kitchen is good. You can replace raw meat with barf and add on vege and fruits. Vege and fruits are part of the meal and should not more than meat.

      I do switch protein every 3 days because I don’t want their system to immune of one protein and only getting limited protein. Sticking on one protein too long is not advisable to switch suddenly.

      • My sheltie’s still on commercial raw, but because I find that feeding completely BARF seems to constipate him a bit, I’m mixing in a bit of meat+liver on my own. I’m also including Honest Kitchen’s Pro-Bloom (digestive enzymes with probiotics).

        As you mentioned about some dogs not doing well on some proteins, I did wonder if that is the issue with my dog. He seemed to lick less on certain proteins (pork, fish), but never completely lick-free. I did want to rotate the proteins fed every 2 weeks or so, but I guess I’m running out of possible protein options that would not trigger his licking.

        Any ideas about what to feed for better coat/less greasy coat? And do you use Frontline or other flea-preventives?

        Thanks again for your time!

      • I mixed apple cider vinegar (20%) with water (80%) for ticks and flea prevention. It has other usage too. You may want to Google it. I feed Alaskan salmon oil with vit e (2 separate supplements) alt days and coconut oil in their food everyday. The protein for raw meats are whole chicken with bone, beef (sirloin, ribeye, oxtail and many more parts), lamb leg boneless (sometimes as too expensive here), duck breast, pork Tenderloin, pigeon (sometimes) quail (sometimes), rabbit (sometimes) and venison (barf). For cooked meat will be fish as i dont feed raw on fish as too dangerous for salmonella. And now add abit of kibbles (only 20 kibbles for those meat I can’t buy here such as kangaroo and turkey). I’m going to add honest kitchen in soon. I mostly feed chicken, beef, pork and venison. On top of this, I add cranberries, blueberries and vegetables. I will feed kefir with fruits (not together with meals) during tea time.
        For my dogs, they will start to lick when I bought pork from wet market but if I buy from supermarket, they are fine with it. I didn’t put Frontline as I don’t really like chemical on them. I will put apple cider vinegar before going out and will check after every walk.

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